Arduino by Davis: “ViKi LCD – A sleek LCD control interface for your 3D printer by Roy Cortes #3dthursday” plus 19 more

ViKi LCD – A sleek LCD control interface for your 3D printer by Roy Cortes #3dthursday
Robotic Metal Band – Compressorhead
Re: Newbi need some help please
Re: PWM 38Khz
Re: Accessing SDRAM DIMM SPD eeprom
Re: Idea needed for hidden Target
Re: My first Arduino's project
Re: Newbi need some help please
Signing your 3D prints with digital/physical signature #3dthursday
Rear Window LED Marquee
Re: Info lcd Ks0108
come realizzare sensore capacitivo
Re: Velocità del loop Mega 2560
Re: Home automation with Arduino Uno and Ethernet Shield
Re: How to run 4 servos separately using the Arduino R3 board?
Re: uuuggghhhh ebay and common RGB leds
A Switching Power Supply? The TL2575
Re: Uno cannot connect - MAC OSX 10.6.8 does not display USB modem
Re: Arduino and MLX90620 16X4 pixel IR thermal array
Re: Velocità del loop Mega 2560

ViKi LCD – A sleek LCD control interface for your 3D printer by Roy Cortes #3dthursday

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 02:00 AM PST

ViKiLCD

Great electronics project Kickstarter for 3D printers built around an Adafruit RGB LCD Shield and Arduino library! — ViKi LCD:

ViKi is an easy to use LCD control panel interface designed for 3D printers and CNC machines but can also be used for other micro controller projects. It allows your 3D printer to operate without a PC always connected and provides visual indication of things like temperature and peripheral activity. It can also be used on most micro controller / Arduino projects that require a display and control interface. Give that project of yours a professional looking panel!

ViKi stands for Visual Kinetic control Interface.

Viki LCD is based on AdaFruit's RGB LCD Shield and is compatible with the same Arduino library that is uses. Lincomatic also has the faster LIQUIDTWI2 LCD library with support for ViKi.

Currently Viki LCD works nicely with the latest Repetier firmware and Lincomatic's fork of Marlin. If you can help with other firmware please contact me. It will work with most 3D printer controllers that has at least 128kb of programming space, tested with Azteeg X3, Azteeg X1 v1.5, RAMPS, Sanginololu with 1284P and PrintrBoard. Should work with RAMBo, Gen7 with 1284P and other controllers as it just needs the i2c pins and 2 pins for the encoder to get basic control. If you have ATmega644P on your controller, there is a pledge reward with an MCU upgrade.

Features:

20×4 Character LCD (nice and bright, good viewing angles)

I2C communications (less wires)

microSD slot with card detect

Rotary Encoder with center button

Pause/Reset Button

4 way Navigation Buttons

3 addressable LEDs, 1 SD card LED

Dimmable backlight using PWM pin

Arduino compatible library by adafruit and Lincomatic's LIQUIDTWI2

Poly-carbonate graphic overlay to protect LCD

Built-in shift register. 5v and 3.3v compatible

Every Thursday is #3dthursday here at Adafruit! The DIY 3D printing community has passion and dedication for making solid objects from digital models. Recently, we have noticed electronics projects integrated with 3D printed enclosures, brackets, and sculptures, so each Thursday we celebrate and highlight these bold pioneers!

Have you considered building a 3D project around an Arduino or other microcontroller? How about printing a bracket to mount your Raspberry Pi to the back of your HD monitor? And don't forget the countless LED projects that are possible when you are modeling your projects in 3D!

The Adafruit Learning System has dozens of great tools to get you well on your way to creating incredible works of engineering, interactive art, and design with your 3D printer! If you've made a cool project that combines 3D printing and electronics, be sure to let us know, and we'll feature it here!

Robotic Metal Band – Compressorhead

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 02:00 AM PST

Compressorhead practicing "Ace of Spades" via Geekologie.

Re: Newbi need some help please

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:28 AM PST

Tx AWOL I just copied your code piece and now it works. I took the curly brackets out but i could not what else to change in min

Re: PWM 38Khz

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:24 AM PST

Boh. Ho ricontrollato ora, OC4A è su D6, sulla MEGA.

Re: Accessing SDRAM DIMM SPD eeprom

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:24 AM PST

I'm done. Everything went well at the end. Reading the PC100 SDRAM SPD eeprom with i2c and Arduino is easy if you wire it right (I did not at first!). I ended up wiring it directly to the eeprom ic with a few test hooks instead of using the board's pin...

Re: Idea needed for hidden Target

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:23 AM PST

Quote from: JD3 on January 09, 2013, 02:57:02 PM

Kind of like ham radio operators and fox hunts?

Yes, something like this. Everyone is building his own robort. We hide the target somewhere in the room, also hidden, an...

Re: My first Arduino's project

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:22 AM PST

Someone knows if it possible connect an arduino with a meshlium... I need this information for my project.

Re: Newbi need some help please

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:21 AM PST

But you removed the semicolon and sorted out the braces, right?

Quote

The cloning part isn't that big of a deal since this is all open source

And the cloners contribute to this community, do they?

Signing your 3D prints with digital/physical signature #3dthursday

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:00 AM PST

SIgningPrints

Here's a technique that a few of us have tried over the years to tuck in our signature to the work we create: model a signature into the interior of a 3D printed object. I tried this with grids of binary, but TheNewHobbyist went for these pleasing, direct blockletter initials. Via 3Ders.org:

Raster made a lightweight frame to hold a GoPro Hero3 camera and shared the design STL files on Thingiverse. Some days later he found a GoPro Hero3 Frame was sold on Shapeways by someone else, not himself.

It happens almost everyday that things you made are copied by others. Chris, a Chicago maker came up with a speical solution: signing your 3D prints with a digital/physical signature.

'Taking my username's initials I sized the letters to fit within the structure of the print. The letters are 1.0mm in height which at my current layer height of 0.3 mm prints 3 layers of initials in the print before covering the top and continuing the print. Pictured in the header image of this post is a finished print that includes my initials inside. You really can't see any evidence of my initials on the completed print so it doesn't really modify the intended appearance of the peice. However if you're printing the part yourself you will see my print "sign" itself with my initals about 25% into the print.

'While this "digital/physical signature" isn't impossible to remove I think it's a good way for anyone from artists, engineers, and hobbyists to make their mark on their 3D designs. It's pretty cool to watch this being printed as you can see in the video below. It's almost like a secret message from the model's creator. I think it would be pretty cool to see logos or initials "sign themselves" in the middle of more prints that I grab off the internet. It's a good way to connect the cool object you're printing with the cool person that designed it and you really don't need to do anything to see it, it tells you who made it while it's printing!'

Rear Window LED Marquee

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 01:00 AM PST

truckmatrix

Robert Dunn soldered 480 red LEDs into a grid in the rear window of his truck:

The LED Sign itself is a 48×10 soldered together matrix of red LED's. I soldered them together sparsely in a mesh so it could be mounted in the back window without losing rear visibility. The rows are controlled using a 4017 decade counter for POV. The columns are controlled using six 959 shift registers.

Input from the vehicle is recieved from the trailer light hookup through a cable and into the cab. The signal from the trailer lights hookup is connected to the arduino using optocouplers. The arduino can sense both turn signals and the lights using this setup. The 12v signal is regulated down to 5v for the optocoupler using 7805 voltage regulators. There was probably somewhere in the cab to get the turning signal input from, but it was easier to use the trailer hookup, although uglier.

Via Hackaday

Re: Info lcd Ks0108

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:54 AM PST

A me serviva una foto con i componenti SMD montati, ho preso sia la versione DIP che quella smd, ovvio che completo il display, senza incasinarmi la vita; ho preso gli MCP23017 come abbiamo concordato in precedenza.
L'altra cosa che mi serve è proprio ...

come realizzare sensore capacitivo

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:51 AM PST

ciao
vorrei realizzare un controllo, per verificare il passaggio di oggetti dentro un tubo plastico che non posso forare, mediante un sensore capacitivo, ho raccolto un po' di documentazione e pensavo di utilizzare questo, mi sembra ben documentato
htt...

Re: Velocità del loop Mega 2560

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:50 AM PST

Quote from: leo72 on Today at 03:42:43 AM

(se ho capito bene a quali porzioni di codice ti stai riferendo)

http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,141254.60.html Pag 5 #reply 70

Re: Home automation with Arduino Uno and Ethernet Shield

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:49 AM PST

Paradigm, good to see you made it...
could you for the benifit of others watching these posts send your final code & screen dumps.
Regards

Re: How to run 4 servos separately using the Arduino R3 board?

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:47 AM PST

Quote

Note: after the upload is complete I am getting the following note at the bottom of the page (the black space): avrdude: stk500_getsync() : not in sync: resp=0x00. Does this have anything with the fault??

It normally means that the code ...

Re: uuuggghhhh ebay and common RGB leds

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:23 AM PST

I have bought common cathode RGB LEDs off eBay from China and they were whatntheynsaid they were. The problem is that most sellers do not know what they are selling they are just selling on what they bought.

A Switching Power Supply? The TL2575

Posted: 10 Jan 2013 12:22 AM PST

Hi, everyone,

With a collection of people running so many standalone and low-voltage applications on the Arduino, is there any reason why people aren't replacing their 5[V] regulators (usually the classic LM7805) with a switching regulator? In terms o...